Getting around the north coast-Carro Publico

The carro publico is very similar to the guagua. Think of the publico as a car that functions as a bus. These are very common just like the guaguas and you will see them pass by the main road every few minutes. You will see the fixed route of the car either on the windshield or on a little sign on top of the roof. The vehicles are absolutely ancient. (Think 1979 Toyota Corolla) and just barely in working condition. The driver expects to carry 6 passengers in addition to himself. One in the front seat, one small person who straddles the space between the 2 front seats, and 4 passengers in the back (As the above pic shows.) Expect to be packed like sardines. Sometimes the driver may make you pay for 2 spaces if he feels you are taking up so much space that he can't accommodate an extra passenger, so prepare to accommodate everyone who gets on after you. Someone might have to literally sit on top of you! If you have a lot of bags, they will charge you for another space or you can be more proactive and pay for 2 spaces. That way the driver won't pick up as many people and you will travel in (relative) comfort. Pay the driver as you get in and state your destination. To go from Sosua to Cabarete, it's about 30 pesos. Sosua- Puerto Plata 35-40 pesos.

These cars run at night also, albeit less frequently and at higher prices. You will pay at least 60 pesos from Cabarete to Sosua at night.

Getting around the north coast-Guagua

Generally, if you don't have a car, there are 3 ways to get around when on the north coast of the Dominican Republic (Puerto Plata, Sosua, Cabarete area): Guagua (local bus), Carro Publico, and Motoconcho.

1) The Guaguas run from early in the morning until sunset along the main highway running along the north coast.(Hwy. 5). They are usually small mini-buses or even old minivans! You will know them when you see the bus or the minivan with "P. Plata-Rio San Juan" above the outside windshield. This means it runs along the highway from Puerto Plata to Rio San Juan and back (about 55 miles between the 2 towns.) This means it runs through Sosua, Cabarete, it goes past the entrance to the Playa Dorada resort complex, and goes past the entrance to the airport. Just stand along the main road and get on the side of the road based on the direction you want to travel, and when you see it coming, just stick out your hand. The guagua has a driver and another person who hangs out on the side of the bus or van and solicits rides and collects the fare. In the minivan, you can expect to be smashed in there with at least 8-10 other passengers. You could probably also end up getting somebody sitting on you lap! When the guagua stops, I recommend you pay the fare collector as you board and state your destination. They will then know that you know the fair going price for the trip and will not ask you for outrageous amounts when the trip is over. For example, if you are going from Sosua to Cabarete, give the conductor 20 pesos and simply say "A Cabarete" Of course, for longer trips, the price is higher. When you are at the point in Cabarete where you want to get off, just say "Aqui me bajo." and climb out. Not the most comfortable way to get around, but the price is right.

A day at the beach

I'm burnt to a crisp now from spending the day at Sosua Beach. It's absolutely gorgeous. For 60 pesos (less than $2) you can get a lounge chair and table for the whole day. There are people walking along the beach always hounding you to buy souvenirs, shrimp, pineapple, but if you just tell them no it's usually ok. The drinks on the beach are extortionately priced. I'm glad I filled my bag with soda, water, and snacks from the store before I went on the beach. The water is clean and a beautiful color of blue. The only problem was that in the water I stepped on a sea urchinand it hurt like hell. I've had all these things that looked like little blue splinters deep in my foot and toes. Later in the day my foot started to swell so I went looking for the clinic. The doctor at the clinic pulled out all the little stingers from the urchin out of my foot, cleaned it, wrapped it up, and gave me some antibiotics. Also the nail on my left little toe was ripped nearly clean off by some coral in the water and it was just hanging by a bloody thread. She took care of that too. It feels a lot better now but my left foot is still pretty sore.

Two mishaps on New Years Day

The apartment is just outside the center of Sosua, less than a half mile walk. It is a nice pleasant walk during the day, but I was told by the landlady its just not safe to walk this road after sunset. Its best to take a motoconcho into Sosua and back at night. (that's when you climb on a motorbike and ride it like a taxi.) Its 20 pesos in the daytime and 30 at night. (60cents and 90cents US respectively) and do not let them tell you that its anymore. On New Years night, I took a concho to Sosua for dinner. Once I was there I gave 30 pesos and he wanted more and I told him "no mas" "Treinta pesos y no mas." It ended up into a little argument (I only understood about every few words or so) and he wanted all the money in my pocket I told him to fuck off and walk away. He pestered me for a while but once inside the bar he didn't follow me in. In the bar, I told them my experience and they said next time, just confidently give them the 20 or 30 pesos and just walk away. They know that's what the price is and they can't do anything else about it but pester for more money since they consider you are a rich gringo, you should be paying more.



Also on New Years day, I realized that I left my Prilosec at home! I would have to suffer the whole week or try my luck at the local farmacia (pharmacia)where I'm sure they don't speak a lick of English. After a little research in my dictonary, I decided to give it a try. "Tiene alguien para acidez de estomago?" (Do you have something for acid in the stomach?) and she was showing me some Mexican knockoff for Tums. I then said the generic word for Prilosec with Spanish pronunciation and she brought some generic Prilosec made in Mexico. For 5 of them it was 85 pesos, (under $3). Cheaper than in the States. If they actually work, maybe I'll stock up before I go home.

Arriving in Sosua.

From the airport, the ground transport rates are fixed by the government and posted with a huge sign. They are pretty expensive and there's no room for negotiation. The rate for taxi to Sosua is $22US, which is outrageous considering it is less than 7 miles away. A taxi in Manhattan would be cheaper for that distance! After a short 10 minute drive I was at The Palms apartments in Sosua. I called the cell phone of the landlady and she met me at the entrance and let me in the apartment. I prepaid 20% on Paypal for a deposit, so the balance left was $160 US in cash on arrival. It is her smallest apartment and it was the only one left for the time I wanted to stay. The landlady is from Canada so there was no language problem at all. It's pretty nice, but there is no air conditioning. However, its not necessary at all this time of year here. There's a good working ceiling fan and a floor fan that keeps the apartment plenty cool. There's a small kitchen area with gas stove and small refrigerator. The water heater is on a timer. If you switch it on it will only run for 30 minutes at a time then automatically shuts off. Power is very expensive in this country and there are shortages at times, with brief periodic rolling blackouts. If you want to see where I'm staying, I have the link below. The economy studio link has pics of the apartment I'm staying in. Where the hell else in the Carribean can you stay for $200 a week?! If I went to a hotel in Puerto Rico or Cayman Islands it would be $200 a night!


www.sosuavacationrentals.com

"Que hay 'pa mi?"

I got to Puerto Plata airport on New Years Day in the afternoon. I had never flown into this aiport before, even though it is only 7 miles from Sosua! I have heard that the customs officers here are just as bad if not worse than in the other airports in the country. Actively soliciting tips and bribes is the norm. I came fully prepared for this, since I was coming in with some school supplies, old clothes, and a couple of DVD players (the cheapie $18 ones at wal-mart) for donation to the local school. I was even prepared to give the officer one of the DVD players in case of the very real possibily that he asks me. "Que hay 'pa mi?" (What's there for me?). Electronics can be taxed up to 250% duty here plus the 16% ITBIS (like a VAT) on top of that. ( that's why electronics are very expensive here.) So it would actually be cheaper in the end if I had a problem to give away one of the DVD players. In the end it wasn't necessary. While going through customs, the officers were preocupied asking some gringos ahead of me for propinas (tips) so they won't get their bags searched. I just cut in front of them and confidently made my way to the exit, not stopping for a second and holding my declaration out for an officer to take it from me. One of them did and just let me keep walking and that was the end of that. With 2 50lb bags and a carry on that easily weighed 30lbs, I really dodged a bullet there. I was suprised they let me through so easily.